by Jana-Lynn
Remember that one time in 2007 when we, collectively, decided we were over submitting our existence to European standards of beauty and began a journey to better embrace our natural kinks, curls, and coils? After years of perms (and chemical burns on our scalp) and weaves (and the head pat that follows insatiable scalp itch), we decided to hold off just a bit longer on that relaxer after 6 weeks and did one more weave install… all in an attempt to let our natural curls grow in just a little bit longer.
The more brazen ones big-chopped while the rest of us (i.e. me) continued to press our hair as we grew it out in hopes of having the comfort of the longer length we were accustomed to when we finally decided to cut off the relaxed hair. We experimented with different hair products, poured over hours of YouTube videos and newly-found natural hair blogs, dabbled with henna & homemade protein masks, used t-shirts to dry our hair, and bought hundreds of dollars’ worth of hair products.
As the novelty of the movement wore off, hard habits began to form and women started making concrete decisions regarding how they would move forward in their own personal hair journey.
Some women became purists, believing only in organic, DIY hair care and shunning anything that would potentially alter their tresses—including hair dye for some women. They rarely used flat irons and stuck to twist-outs, braid-outs, rods, and experimented with protective natural styles that utilized their own hair. Other women, albeit natural, weren’t concerned about product type and just stuck with what they always knew worked for their hair. Other naturalistas continued to ditch the relaxers, but kept flat-ironing as a regular part of their hair routine. Others used weaves and wigs as a form of protective style as they grew their hair out, ever praying that heat damage wouldn’t consume the hair left out for blending purposes. And still, others could never come to terms with their texture or didn’t care for all the time needed to maintain their natural tresses or just got bored with the look, and soon went back to relaxers.
Thus, just as with all movements, a slight bit of tension began to brew between all the different schools of thought found in the Natural Hair Movement, with overall hair health seemingly being at the center of the discussion.
Weave causes breakage!
Natural hair isn’t for everyone!
Product Junkies waste money!
Flat irons are damaging!
You’re not ‘natural’ if your hair is blonde!
Dye isn’t the same as a relaxer!
Love your curls and stop covering them up!
I can do what I want with my hair!
While these dialogues have been churning through our community, a quiet little trend was beginning to sprout in another group. Over the past several years, an extremely popular trend has blossomed in South Korea and Japan: the Asian Afro Perm. If you aren’t familiar, this technique is a chemical process in which straight hair is changed into kinky hair with the use of perm rods.
Yes, ladies and gentlemen, our hair is officially trending. And yes, I am also curious as to whether or not this process can be used to revert heat damage.
With the rise in popularity in this hair trend, the largest exporter of human hair extensions would soon begin to cater to the kinky textured crowd. In the past 2-3 years, several Black women owned business—such as Kurly Klips, Heat Free Hair Movement, Nazuri Curls, and FauxFro—have taken these new offerings and began to provide kinky, curly, and coily hair extensions to the U.S. and international natural hair community. We’ve also seen an increase in the use of faux locs and crotchet braids.
And, finally, it seemed like a hair conversation in which all of us could wholly agree on: the beauty and versatility of black hair.
The benefits of natural-textured weaves and wigs are quite numerous. We can have protective styling without worrying about damage, allowing us to stay true to our natural roots while giving our hair rest and room to grow. The gals who loved color can now experiment with all the coloring they want without any fear of damaging their tresses. The gals who love weave now have... well, more options to enjoy.
We can add a few clips to add volume to our twist-outs. We can add a few clips to achieve the high-bun look that our TWA can’t afford us on its own. We can attain the look of big voluminous hair without waiting the 7+ years needed to grow it, all breakage and fairy knots aside. Those who were on the fence about transitioning from relaxed hair can experiment with kinky extensions to experience the look and learn about styling, allowing for more informed decision making.
As more and more black women dared to embrace their natural curls, we have begun to see more of representation of kinky textured hair everywhere. Trailblazers such as Lupita Nyong’o, Willow Smith, Solange Knowles, Janelle Monae, SZA, and Teyonnah Parris are constantly photographed wearing their natural curls and often dabble with kinky hair extensions for changes in volume or length. We have seen Olivia Pope’s natural curls in shower and beach scenes on Scandal. Annalise Keating’s iconic wig removal has led to more scenes with her natural hair, and even a scene in which she is sleeping with her hair wrapped on How to Get Away With Murder. Rainbow and her two daughters, Zoey and Diane showcase their natural curls on Black*ish, with one episode even focusing on Diane’s transition from kinky to pressed hair.
From magazine editorials to commercial advertisements, we are beginning to witness more and more representation of black women donning their natural hair texture. So, while many look at this newer offering of natural hair extensions as something miniscule, I believe it marks something much larger: a cultural shift that is creating space for the beauty and representation of kinky textures.
I’m glad to see that we are slowly getting to the place where all hair textures can be represented and celebrated.
Jana-Lynn is a lifestyle blogger, personal stylist, and cultural critic. Follow her adventures on Twitter (@BasedJane) and her blog (thejanetales.blogspot.com) for conversations on fashion, style, pop culture, love, and life.
